Supreme Master Director of Traffic (in Thailand)
Sep 24, 2025
While travelling in Thailand on a scooter, I was fascinated by the way people ride and drive. There are often more scooters and motorbikes than cars, although the ratio varies a little, depending on where you are, the time of day, and weather. (I was in Chiang Mai in relation to this article, in the off-season, in September.) (And how does this relate to living your Best Life, you ask? Well, the benefits of being adaptable, international travel, and learning new skills to stay alive and well!! š)
I visited a friend in Thailand, who has been living in Thailand for two years. He has been travelling to various areas in Thailand for many years before that, so he is quite familiar with the roads, and the road rules they live by. He is an experienced and proficient motorbike rider, in Thailand as well as in other countries. And while I don’t love motorbikes, he was kind enough to hire a bike that works for both of us, so we could travel around – he was keen to show me his favourite places. (The bike has a comfortable seat, and the passenger seat isn’t so high above the rider’s seat that it uses all my muscles to stay upright – not a fun experience, I can assure you! By the time we got wherever we were going, I was exhausted.)
So as we were staying a place where riding by scooter made more sense than other transport, we used the scooter most of the time. And in the spirit of being adaptable (and adventurous for me) (both of which are part of me living my Best Life), and living like the locals, I was willing to travel mostly by bike. (We did hire a Grab driver (like Uber) when we were going out to meet some other international friends, as I wanted to get dressed up, which wasn’t practical if travelling on a bike.)
While riding around on the back of the bike in the heavy traffic, I noticed that my friend uses ‘the force’ (like Star Wars) to ‘direct’ the traffic around him. š¤£ While this might seem a little weird, it’s actually quite helpful – especially if a car is getting WAY too close.
If you’ve been to Thailand, the stated rules seem to be more there for decoration. The REAL rules are – whoever is in front wins, and it’s your job (if you’re behind) not to hit anything. Which seems fine – until somebody cuts you off, and you have about a second to respond, and stop hitting them. Often they don’t bother looking when they join a major road from a side road – they are going there, and if you get in the way, that’s your problem, not theirs. Which is quite different to what we’re used to – but is the standard here. So you must be vigilant to anything in front of you – or trying to get in front of you from behind or around you. And yes, it takes a confident rider, an understanding of the road rules that they live by, and time to adjust. I wouldn’t suggest a beginner rider try this traffic straight up, as it’s chaotic.
Now having said this, sometimes cars like to take the same approach – they’re coming out, and if you’re in the way – get out of their way. Which, again, sounds ok – until you realise you’re in the middle of a group of bikes and cars, and there is nowhere to go. Then what do you do?
Well, the answer is clear – you become the Supreme Master Director of Traffic!! š (And yes, I made this up – but isn’t it a great title?!)
When you’re riding along, following the rules (diligence to the front, minding your own business, going in a straight line) – and a car decides it wants your space, and there is nowhere else for you to go without causing an accident – you explain to the driver of the car that they have to wait, or they will kill you – which wasn’t on your list of things to do today (or ever, in that scenario).
After watching my friend a few times, I was on the back, and out of the corner of my eye, saw a car getting WAY too close, with no signs of stopping. Having already been in an accident on a scooter by a car not seeing us in Australia, while on my brand new scooter (another friend was riding, with me on the back), I didn’t want to go through that again. So I shot out my arm, hand up in the international ‘Stop!’ symbol, and directed ‘the force’ of ‘Stop!’ to the car. Thankfully it worked, and although they weren’t happy (we got honked), nobody got hurt, so I was happy. He can deal with his hurt feelings – if he tries to run me over, his hurt feelings are not my concern!!
Once I’d done it successfully, I got the hang of it. If it’s a case of us being hit on a scooter, or becoming a Supreme Master Director of Traffic, hey, I’m willing to become a Supreme Master! š
Typically in Chiang Mai, Thailand, all the motorbikes weave through the cars until they are at the front of the queue at traffic lights. And the traffic lights are usually long – a few minutes – so the bikes amass, and it is a race to see who gets off first. (My friend is usually up the front.) Others use the waiting time at the lights to read their text messages. One guy searched for a cooking show, and watched that (something was chopped up and deep fried) while waiting for the lights. Sometimes you wave to little kids. And I complemented another westerner on her jewellery. So you are usually entertained, by looking around, checking out the people and bikes and sights. š
My friend mastered the ‘Supreme Master Director of Traffic’ technique many years ago, and has used it successfully for many years now. He mentioned that most drivers in Thailand are used to riding bikes, which weave in and out of their lanes at will, meandering around up and down (yes, sometimes you see bikes coming at you from the opposite direction, on the side of the road – where you are also riding). In Chiang Mai, the side of the road is often considered an extra lane – for cars as well as bikes. And if someone is parked there, you just move into the ‘real’ lane.
Apparently the government offered a great deal on cars, and many people took it up – but still drive them like a bike; lanes are kind of guidelines – they’re happy to straddle two lanes, weaving in and out at will – not quite realising that there are people there on bikes. So they are driving with a ‘I’m the King of the Castle – get out of my way’ attitude – which can work on a bike, as that is the culture – but not so much in a car, as the bikes don’t know when it is safe to pass, as the car could go anywhere at any time.
As you can imagine, scooter/motorbike riders must always be aware that at any given second, any bike or car will want their space – with no warning – so it’s up to you to divine where they might want to go, and when – and tell them that ‘hey, I’m currently here, can you give me a second or two to move’ (if possible) and if not, ‘can you just wait a second, and not kill me please’?
My friend sometimes directs traffic more openly – sometimes he will ‘direct’ a car/bike to go in a particular direction – by using his arm like a policeman/woman directing traffic. This is usually when a car is wandering all over the road, with no regard to lanes, or other traffic – indicating which direction the car should go. Once he did this to a couple of cars and bikes ahead of us – and they all moved to the side as he requested – which he was surprised by, but also grateful. (‘Oh, they did it! Thank you!’)
Have you ever done this, either in Thailand, or another country? I’m sure there are a number of ‘Supreme Master Directors of Traffic’ on the road, in their own country. Have you (or someone you know) ever said to another driver ‘get on your side of the road!’ or ‘Drive faster – you’re not even doing the speed limit!’ I know I’ve been guilty of this, especially when I was younger. I’m more tolerant now, and usually not as much in a hurry – in part because my current car has no ‘oomph’, so I’ve had to drastically change my driving style – from quick and zippy to slow and defence – which I admit took some time, but I’m used to it now.
Final Thoughts
Part of me living my Best Life includes going on adventures, trying new things, being adaptable, and travelling around the world. So although this blog is not, on the face of it, about living your Best Life, it incorporates a portion of some my values and beliefs in living my own life. You could use it to reflect on whether any of these values are also part of yours - or not. There is no right or wrong, as everyone is unique. That's the beauty of living your Best Life - it is yours, and you get to decide what is, and what is not, part of your own unique Best Life. Do you have a clear idea of what your Best Life looks like?
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š FAQ – Riding a Scooter in Chiang Mai, Thailand
- Do I need a license to ride a scooter in Chiang Mai?
Yes, you legally need a motorbike license from your home country and an International Driving Permit (IDP). Some people rent without one, but it can affect your insurance, and also lead to fines. I don’t recommend it. - Is it safe to ride a scooter in Chiang Mai?
This depends on how confident of a rider you are, and whether you understand the road rules (as in real life, not just the theoretical – they differ)! Traffic can be chaotic, especially at rush hour. Always wear a helmet, stay focused, and ride defensively. - What side of the road do they drive on in Thailand?
They drive on the left side of the road in Thailand (although please note that a couple of turns are on the right hand side of the road, and there are also some one way streets). This can take some getting used to if you're from a country that drives on the right. - Do I need travel insurance to ride a scooter?
Yes, please! Make sure your travel insurance covers motorbike accidents and that you have the correct licenses. (International Drivers Licence, and your motorbike licence as well.) Not all insurance policies cover this, so double-check the fine print. - What kind of scooter should I rent?
Most travellers rent a 110cc or 125cc automatic scooter – they’re easy to ride, and good for getting around town and nearby hills if it’s just you. As I mentioned, I don’t recommend you ride unless you are confident on the bike, and in the Thailand traffic. Please make sure you feel comfortable with how they ride, and the way that they ride – it is quite different to countries like Australia and America, for example. - How much does it cost to rent a scooter in Chiang Mai?
It varies a bit, depending on the scooter, the rental shop, and the season. You may find something between 150–300 THB per day (about $4–$8 USD). Monthly rentals are cheaper per day. Also note that some shops will request that they hold onto your passport – some people ask them to take a photocopy instead, to avoid any nasty discussions at the end if they decide they don’t like the condition of the bike you return. (Most Thai people are very nice and friendly, however, as with any country, there are exceptions.) - Can beginners ride scooters in Chiang Mai?
Yes, but it’s best to practice in a quiet area first. If you’ve never ridden before, be extra cautious, and don’t ride in busy traffic until you feel confident. (I was in Thailand during low season, and it’s still extremely busy and chaotic – so it is best to be a confident rider if you want to ride. There is also a Grab app that most people use – and this is what I would use if my friend wasn’t riding with me on the back.) - What’s the traffic like in Chiang Mai?
It can be very busy, especially during rush hour, or near markets. Weekend nights can also bring out people who are more aggressive, and/or under the influence, and/or in a hurry. Expect cars, tuk-tuks, other scooters, and the occasional random U-turn! Stay alert, and don’t rush. - Do I have to wear a helmet?
Yes – it’s the law in Thailand, and also for your safety. Always wear a helmet, even if locals don’t. Accidents do happen, so it is good to protect your head. - What happens if I get stopped by the police?
They may check for your license, helmet, and International Drivers Permit. If you don’t have the right documents, you might get fined. Please be polite and cooperative.
Disclaimer
The information shared in this blog post is based on my personal experiences riding motorbikes in Thailand. Please note that I am not an expert on Thai road traffic laws or motorcycle safety, and my observations may not be representative of the laws or practices in all areas of the country. This blog is intended solely for entertainment purposes and to share my individual journey. It should not be used as a definitive guide for motorcycle riding in Thailand or any other location. Always consult local authorities and follow proper safety protocols when riding. Your safety is the top priority.
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